San Francisco, 2009 -- Segments 1 and Part of 2

April 14, 2009 San Francisco # 1 and part of # 2

From the Golden Gate Bridge to Sloat Boulevard

We had stayed the night before at a hotel in Clayton and visited relatives in the East Bay. From there we had driven across the Richmond – San Rafael Bridge and headed down Highway 101 toward San Francisco. It had been my intention to begin today’s hike from the north vista point of the Golden Gate Bridge. Unfortunately I missed the poorly marked turn. (And apologized for the resultant deplorable language.) Before any hiking could occur we visited the Palace of the Legion of Honor for an exhibit of Artistic Luxury. (Fabrege, Lalique and Tiffany.) From there we returned to the south vista point of the Golden Gate Bridge where we had lunch.

Armored against wind and glare.

Not your usual view of the bridge.

Fortifications galore.  View towards Land's End.

Segment 1 of San Francisco runs from the north end of the bridge to the Cliff House. However, by the time we had finished lunch and my wife and grandson had gone on to the Exploratorium, the wind had picked up substantially and I decided it would be the better part of valor to put off conquering my acrophobia to some other time. (See end note.) So, then, I began from the south end of the bridge.

The trail leads around the point and under the bridge. I had an excellent view of the underside of the bridge from an unusual angle. The trail continues past various costal fortifications from San Francisco’s past. I took the side trail ‘Batteries to Beaches.’ I was pretty thoroughly sand blasted at Baker Beach but I did get to see the disappearing carriage gun at Battery Chamberlain – whatever wasn’t shrouded in tarps against the blowing sand.  (You've perhaps seen these disappearing guns in old films?  Their recoil drives them back and down behind concrete ramparts from which they're raised for the next shot.  Very stylish around 1900 but thereafter mostly replaced by guns on more conventional mounts -- the price of disappearing was inadequate elevation and range.)




Battery Chamberlin.  The disappearing gun has disappeared
under a cloud of plastic tarps.

No San Francisco travelogue is complete without something like this.

　

The trail continues through the posh Sea Cliff neighborhood and around Land’s End below Lincoln Park, the Legion and the VA Hospital. Various signs announce the points of interest, ship wrecks here, former trolley line there. The old trolley line leads at last to the Cliff House. It was by now extremely windy, Marcel Marceau windy. The ruins of the Sutro Baths at water’s edge lie at the bottom of a funnel which directs all its force toward the parking lot at the top. It was literally impossible to walk down the stairs to the Baths. ‘Monsieur Bipp Walking Against the Wind’ with me as Marcel Marceau.

Ruins of the Sutro Baths where San Francisco used to gather to swim.
Unfortunately the wind is invisible but it's all blowing up those stairs.

After a pleasant day at the Sutro Baths, you could wander over to the Cliff House.

　
Segment 2 of San Francisco begins at the Cliff House. Downhill from there one finds the Great Highway along the beach. The wind hadn’t slacked any. Sand blew through every gateway in the sea wall, off of every dune. I was sand blasted all along the Great Highway and eventually retreated a block farther inland to escape the abrasion. (How often do they paint the west side of the houses here, I wonder?)

Cliff Houe Totempole with Ocean Beach and the Great Highway.

Familar Golden Gate Park landmark.  To bad it doesn't work any more --
with all that wind it could have powered the whole City!

I finally had enough punishment and stopped for a snack at a café across the street from the Zoo on Sloat Boulevard. I waited there for my wife and grandson to finish the Exploratorium. The wind never let up. The chairs en terrace wound up en rue. A newspaper vending box likewise. Finally a particularly strong gust snapped the stop light on the corner and left it dangling limply by its power cable. I waited there for nearly 2 hours, drinking a latte, watching traffic blow by and conversing with a vanilla Laborador named Mr. Riley.

Note: The Golden Gate Bridge remains unconquered. On July 10, 2009 I attempted it from South to North. Staying on the inner side of the pathway and holding on to the roadside handrail for dear life, I got as far as the first tower.  I couldn't even just look down at my feet: the pedestrian walkway is lower than the roadway and you can see blue water 250 feet below through the gap!  The wind was blowing a gale around the tower and I could go no farther. I must have looked like hell since passing strangers asked, ‘Are you all right, sir? Are you scared?’ My reply was on the lines of, ‘Absolutely terrified but nothing getting off this @#*!!! bridge won’t fix.’  I struggled back to my starting point and took a bus to Sausalito where my wife was waiting to pick me up.

This is the second time I have attempted the Golden Gate Bridge, the first time being decades ago. I got as far as the first tower that time too. The vertigo sets in the moment I step off of terra firma onto the Fort Point Arch.  Small children and frail elderly ladies stroll steadily across, I can't stand upright without the guardrail's aid.  Well, suspension bridges being what they are, out to the first tower and back twice is the same distance as the entire bridge once. I may not have crossed the bridge but I have walked the equivalent distance on the bridge.  (Does the acrophobia affect me when driving?  Nope.  And I have no problems flying.)